Rainy Day Socks

I fell in love with the Aquamarine Blue Socki Stonewash yarn from Adlibris and inspired by it I created these “Rainy Day Socks”. I have always liked these kind of simple geometric patterns.

Knitted with a thick sock yarn like this these socks turned out very warm and they warm my feet nicely on a wet and foggy day like today.

I hope I’ll soon have time to write the pattern for these Socks for you to enjoy.

My kind of Valentine’s Day Socks

This year I decided to create my own Valentine’s Day Sock Pattern. I designed a chart where different people are holding hands symbolizing friends and family that stick together. For this pattern I wanted to leave the typical pink color and heart shapes out and instead create something simple, beautiful and meaningful.

I decided to implement the pattern using the invisible stranding technique to make it as smooth and elastic as possible. But you can as well just use the regular two-color stranded knitting technique. Just remember to trap the floats when there are stretches of stitches in one color that span more than five stitches. When using two-color stranded knitting, knit 10 rows of stockinette stitch after the rib before starting on the chart.

What you need:

Size: fit women’s feet, the length of the foot can be easily adapted, size of the sample sock 36

Yarn: Novita Nalle grey (n. 115g), white (n.15g) (or any other 260g/100m Sock yarn)

Needles: set of five 2,5 mm double-pointed (dpn) needles, tapestry needle

Gauge: approx 26 sts x 35 rnds = 10 x 10 cm

How To:

With grey cast on 60 stitches. Arrange stitches evenly onto 4 dpn (16-16-16-16)

Join for working in the round.

Work the rib according to chart rounds 1-8 two times in total.

Change to stockinette stitch and work 8 rounds

Decrease in round 8 of stockinette stitch on Needle 4 knitting the 3.&2. last stitches together.

Decrease also in round 9 Needle 1: K1, ssk (slip, slip, knit) (=58 sts)

In the same round start on preparing for the invisible stranding technique by knitting a yarn over after every fourth stitch. Rearrange your stitches at the same time (20-20-20-13) (73 Stitches in total)

In finnish language this technique is called “the ladder -technique” so I’ll refer to these extra stitches that will remain hidden in the inside of the sock as ladder stitches for the rest of this pattern.

I have marked these ladder stitches into the chart as red and black lines. The difference between the red and the black lines is merely that the black ones are situated in the end of a needle and are in a different color only to make the following of the chart easier.

In the next round purl all the yarn overs with the white yarn into the back loop while holding the grey yarn in front of the work

Then knit the rounds 1-14 of the chart.

Purl the ladder stitches with white while holding the grey yarn in front of the work except when on both sides of the ladder stitch there are white stitches in the chart. In that case purl the ladder stitch in grey while holding the white yarn in front of the work.

  1. rnd after chart: knit all regular stitches grey and purl all ladder stitches white while holding grey yarn in front. Break white yarn.
  2. rnd after chart: slip all the grey stitches, purl all the ladder stitches with the grey yarn.
  3. rnd after chart: Decrease all the ladder stitches by knitting them together with the next stitch also knit all the other stitches with grey. (=58 sts)

Rearrange the stitches on the needles: (15-14-14-15)

Continue in stockinette stitch.

In round 9 after chart decrease on Needle 4 knitting the 3.&2. last stitches together.
Decrease also in round 10 after chart on Needle 1: K1, ssk (slip, slip, knit) (=56 sts)

Repeat the same decreases in end of round 11 after chart and beginning of round 12. (=54 sts) (13-14-14-13)

Start heel by knitting stitches of Needle 1 onto Needle 4 (=26 sts)

Turn.

  1. slip 1 stitch purlwise, purl 24 sts and knit the last one. Turn.
  2. slip 1 stitch purlwise, *knit 1, slip 1 knitwise* repeat *-*. Turn.

Repeat rows 1&2 for a total of 13 times. Work row 1 one more time.

Then start working the bottom of the heel

On the right side: slip 1 st purlwise, then knit and slip knitwise alternately until there are only eight stitches left on the left needle. Knit 2 together trough the back loop. Turn.

work in short-rows as following:

  1. short-row: (Wrong side) slip 1 st purlwise, purl 11 sts, purl 2 sts together. Turn.
  2. short-row (Right side) *slip 1 knitwise, knit 1* repeat *-* for six times in total or 12 sts have been worked, knit 2 sts together through back loop. Turn.

Repeat short-rows 1&2 until there are only 13 sts left. You should be on the right side now and have just knit 2 sts together through the back loop.

Pick up 14 stitches along the edge of the heel flap, knit Needles 2&3, pick up 15 sts on the other edge of the heel flap. Divide the 13 sts of the heel onto Needles 1&4 (=21-14-14-21)

Continue on stockinette stitch decreasing for the gusset as following:

At the end of Needle 1: knit 2 sts together

At beginning of Needle 4: ssk-decrease (slip, slip, knit)

Continue with these decreases every round until there are 52 sts left (12-14-14-12)

I like my socks well fitted, if you like them loose of want to create a larger sock simply leave a few decreases out.

I wanted to fit the shape of the socks as neatly as possible to the shape of my toes so I ended up creating a fitted version for the toes. This means that the right and left socks are worked as mirror images.

I started the toes after 46 rounds of stockinette stitch after the heel. But knowing that the decreasing towards the toes takes 12 rounds (around 3,5cm) it is easy to knit the foot part for as long as you need.

Working the sock toe:

At the end of Needles 1&3: knit last 2 sts together.

At the beginning of Needles 2&4: ssk (I like to knit these decreased stitches into the back loop in the next round since that makes them settle nicely into the knitwork)

Knitting the right sock:

On Needles 1&2 decreases every round

On Needles 3&4 decreases every second round

That means:

  1. round of decrease: Decrease on every Needle (=48 sts)
  2. round: Decrease only on Needles 1&2 (=46 sts)
  3. round: Decrease on every Needle (=42 sts)
  4. round: Decrease only on Needles 1&2 (=40 sts)
  5. round: Decrease on every Needle (=36 sts)
  6. round: Decrease only on Needles 1&2 (=34 sts)
  7. round: Decrease on every Needle (=30 sts)
  8. round: Decrease only on Needles 1&2 (=28 sts)
  9. round: Decrease on every Needle (=24 sts)
  10. round: Decrease only on Needles 1&2 (=22 sts)
  11. round: Decrease on every Needle (=18 sts)

Knit the stitches of Needle 1 then bind of the remaining 18 stitches using the Kitchener stitch.

If you are not yet familiar with the Kitchener stitch I highly recommend this following video to learn it.

Knitting the left sock:

On Needles 1&2 decreases every second round

On Needles 3&4 decreases every round

  1. round of decrease: Decrease on every Needle (=48 sts)
  2. round: Decrease only on Needles 3&4 (=46 sts)
  3. round: Decrease on every Needle (=42 sts)
  4. round: Decrease only on Needles 3&4 (=40 sts)
  5. round: Decrease on every Needle (=36 sts)
  6. round: Decrease only on Needles 3&4 (=34 sts)
  7. round: Decrease on every Needle (=30 sts)
  8. round: Decrease only on Needles 3&4 (=28 sts)
  9. round: Decrease on every Needle (=24 sts)
  10. round: Decrease only on Needles 3&4 (=22 sts)
  11. round: Decrease on every Needle (=18 sts)

Bind off using the Kitchener stitch.

Weave in loose ends.

PS: Remember to make sure your friends and family know how important they are to you not only on Valentine’s Day but all year long! 🙂

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My personal stash of knitted socks

I am basically wearing knitted socks all the time. They don’t just warm my feet but give me a cosy and homely feeling. For chilly summer evenings or just regular Finnish winter days I have a choice of socks of diverse thickness and material and length and of course different designs from basic striped socks to socks with cables and more intricate patterns and colorwork. .

Many of them have a story of their own. Not all are made by me or even for me. For example there is one pair that has been made for my boyfriend by his mother when he was ten years old or so. He had grown out of them ages ago but I happily adopted them when he was about to throw them away.

Some are made in a knit along -project. There are pairs of socks I basically only made to try out a new technique. There is also a pair of slippers my sister made me. And some that I made with yarn I have also dyed myself.

What does your knitted sock drawer look like? Can one ever have too many pairs of knitted socks?

Tangled Cable Legwarmers + free knitting pattern

A colleague asked me to make her daughter a pair of cable leg warmers. I had some alpaca yarn left over from a sweater I made last December and decided to use it. Since I didn’t find a pattern with the right amount of stitches I would need I decided to create my own pattern. I wrote it down for you to enjoy as well.

Finished size: length 30 cm, for a calf of 35 cm

Construction: work in round, knit with two strands of the yarn at the same time throughout the work

Gauge: 17 stitches and 33 rounds = 10x10cm

What you need:

Yarn: 160g of Picchu 100% Alpaca yarn by Hjertegarn (50g=167m) color 930 (dark brown)

Needles: 4,00 mm (US size 6) set of five double-pointed needles

Cable needle, or extra needle in same size or smaller

Tapestry needle to weave in the ends.

How to:

Cast on 58 stitches, leaving a loose cast on edge. Divide stitches evenly onto 4 dps (double pointed needles) and join for working in the round. Work in knit 1 through back loop, purl 1 -rib for 20 rounds.

Start the chart knitting the row 20. While knitting this row increase 1 stitch by working into front and back of one stitch to get the 59 stitches the chart requires. (It makes no real difference which stitch you increase)

Then work rows 1-20 of the chart three times in total.

click on the chart to enlarge it

You have now knit 81 rounds in total. Repeat the same knit 1 through back loop, purl 1 -rib you started the leg warmer with for 20 rounds. (In the first round you have to knit two stitches together to get back to the 58 stitches)

Bind off while continuing the rip. Weave in the ends.

Make the other leg warmer in the same way.


Wash and block the leg warmers to obtain the correct size.

PS.In case you need to adjust the size of your leg warmers switch to smaller/bigger needles. You can also add some extra rib to each round. I would add it between stitches 11&12 and just knit 1 through back loop, purl 1 -rib for as many stitches as you want to add.

Hope you have fun with this pattern! 🙂

Spring Socks

The first time I flicked through the book Kauneimmat villasukat (Moreeni 2018) by Merja Ojanperä I instantly noticed the Sock Pattern Helmi-Orvokki and put it on my mental To Do -list. The Book is now also available in German (Bezaubernde Wollsocken: Mit Liebe gestrickt), French ( Magnifique chaussettes au tricot) and Swedish (Sticka underbara ullsockor I)

In stead of the white-grey combination of the original pattern I paired the white with a Grass Green. The White-Green makes me think of Spring, the Green waiting for longer days to emerge from under the snow.

As I usually do I made the foot part a little bit more narrow than in the original pattern to fit my small foot (My shoe size is 36). I am super happy with how these turned out.

For this project I used Aran yarn from Novita 7veljestä and the green yarn I found from the Adlibris Socki Collection. It goes by the name Grass Green. I used the Knitpro cubis 3,5 mm needles and ended up using 104 g of yarn in total.