My autumn begins in a rust colored cardigan

It has been a while since my last post but that does not mean that I have not been busy working on new projects. My calendar has been rather full in the last months and I just couldn’t find the time to sit down and document my recent projects.

Now I want to show you my latest finished project. It ist this crochet cardigan. The pattern I used is from the Make & Do Crew and is called the Day Date Crochet Sweater. Here is a link to the free pattern:

Jess from the Make & Do Crew has also made a really clear and straightforward video for her pattern. You can find it here:

The structure of the cardigan is based on two hexagons that are folded and connected in a specific way. Unlike in the original pattern I made my sleeves a bit more narrow and I also used a clearly smaller crochet hook (3,5 mm). The yarn I chose is Cotton Merino made by Drops. It consists of 50% merino wool and 50 % cotton. The lovely rust color I used goes by the code 25.

Drops Cotton Merino Uni Colour is a superwash Yarn, 50% wool, 50% cotton

Altogether I used around 600 g of the yarn while following the pattern for the size XS/S.

I was particularly inspired by the structure of this design and I am sure that I am going to use this hexagon-technique again in the future.

In this photo it is easy to see how the shape of the cardigan comes together.

In my opinion the back of the cardigan is also really beautiful with the graphical lines that are created when using this technique.

In this picture you can see the back of the sweater.

In the end I decided not to do the pockets from the original pattern since in my opinion the simple, beautiful structure didn’t need anything else.

I have already some new ideas for projects with a similar structure in mind. I hope I get the chance the carry these plans out as soon as possible.

Enjoy your autumn!

This hat combines knitting and crocheting

My new hat in tones of blue, pink and purple

A few days ago I made this casual hat that combines knitting and crocheting. I got this lovely Rigato yarn (90 m / 50 g) from Wolle Rödel (color 014) as a gift from my sister last year. I just love the color gradient.

Suddenly I knew what it had been waiting to become. A casual hat that goes really well with my favorite scarf.

My cast on. Next step is to start knitting the rib in the round.

I cast on 68 stitches and worked for 20 rows in the knit 2, purl 2 -ribbing.

Then I used a basic bind off leaving only the last stitch. I switched my double pointed needles (6 mm) into a crochet hook (4,5 mm) and started working into the same stitches using double crochet stitches. I crocheted in the round in spirals. From the fourth round up I started making decreases evenly spaced at four points per round. Starting with four decreases per round and later making double decreases.

I used 59 g of the yarn in total. Hope I come up with something to make off the around 40 g that is left of this beautiful yarn.

The Rigato yarn is made in Italy, 90 m/ 50 g

I wear the hat with the ribbing folded up as a brim. I really like the loose fit of this casual hat.

This time I just wanted to write the pattern down quickly. This hat is super easy to make and I don’t think it really requires much more instructions to succeed but feel free to ask for some directions if you need help.

Knitting Fantasy

Me and boyfriend we are huge fans of Game of Thrones and while waiting for the new episodes we have been re-watching all the seven seasons. At the same time I have also been listening to The Farseer Trilogy audiobooks by Robin Hobb.

So a lot of fantasy and dragons while I have been working on these SMAUG mittens. The pattern is made by JennyPenny and is available in Ravelry. Here is the link to the pattern:

I decided on a different cuff for these than in the original design so that the mittens go nicely under the sleeves of a jacket. The fingering weight yarn I used for these is Socki Fine from Adlibris. In my opinion the green color (goes by the name Green Parakeet, B089) is perfect for this pattern.

I played with the thought of making the eyes of the second mitten blue in reference to the dragon the Night’s King awakened but ended up making both of them in yellow and orange.

I never got a chance to take a picture of the finished mittens since my boyfriend started using them immediately and has been making his friends envy ever since 😀

I would like to make myself a pair of socks with this same pattern one day, maybe in red or black and white.

Do you like to watch TV or listen to audio books while knitting?

Rule of Thirds Beanie + free pattern

One grey and one orange version of the Rule of Thirds Beanie

Some general thoughts:

The pattern of the beanie is playing with the number three and multiples of it and also the decreases are made in three places resolving in an interesting and beautiful shape. That is why I came up with the name Rule of Thirds Beanie. The Rule of Thirds is a principle used widely in Photography and Arts to ensure balanced compositions.

The beanie is knit with two strands of yarn held together throughout the work. Since the whole beanie is ribbed it is really flexible and basically adjusts itself to any shape of head. The hat has a brim which is folded and attached to the inside to keep your ears and forehead warm.


Yarn: two balls of itch-free 320 – 360 m / 100 g yarn ( 50 g / ball )

For the orange beanie (comfortably fits a head with a circumference of 54 cm) I used around 75 g of Baby merino yarn from Adlibris. The color is Orange Rust (A034) 180 / 50g

The grey beanie fits a head with around 58 cm. For that one I used Madame Tricote Paris Cashmere Gold yarn which is a little bit thicker than the one from Adlibris with 320 m / 100g. The beanie took around 85 g of yarn to make.

Needles: I like to knit hats with six double pointed needles. Since when working with only five needles the stitches tend to drop from my needles. The size I used is 4,00 mm ( US size 6 )

In addition you need two cable needles (or e.g. shorter extra double pointed needles of the same size or smaller)

Gauge: around 20 stitches = 10 cm (suitably stretched)

A tapestry needle to weave in the loose ends.


Cast on 108 stitches with two strands of yarn.

Join for working in the round.

Work the *purl 1, knit 1 through the back loop* ribbing for 32 rounds.

In round 33 the folded brim is attached to the inside: Fold the brim so that the edge with the stitches you have cast on is right behind the stitches you are working on at the moment. Work this row alternately purling one and knitting the next stitch together with a stitch that you pick up from the corresponding cast on – stitch. Continue until the end of the round.

Note: If you like you can skip this step and just fold the brim inside or outside or alternatively sew it in place when you have finished the knitting of the whole beanie. In this case simply continue with the ribbing for round 33.

Next work the rounds 1-24 of the chart (repeating the 12 stitches 9 times each round)

A closeup of the pattern

Start making the decreases according to the following chart: (repeat three times each round)

Note that on round 19 on the decreasing chart you have to pass the last stitch from the previous round to the first needle of the next round in order to make the decrease correctly.

After the 19. round of decreasing there are 18 stitches left. Break yarn. With tail threaded on a tapestry needle, draw through the remaining stitches and pull tight.

Weave in loose ends on the wrong side

A bird’s-eye view shot of the beanie.

I really like how the decreases crown the beanie.

I will have to make some photos of someone actually wearing these hats soon. Hope I get my sister or a friend to model these for me so that I can make some nice shots.

Enjoy knitting this beanie 🙂

Rainy Day Socks

I fell in love with the Aquamarine Blue Socki Stonewash yarn from Adlibris and inspired by it I created these “Rainy Day Socks”. I have always liked these kind of simple geometric patterns.

Knitted with a thick sock yarn like this these socks turned out very warm and they warm my feet nicely on a wet and foggy day like today.

I hope I’ll soon have time to write the pattern for these Socks for you to enjoy.

My kind of Valentine’s Day Socks

This year I decided to create my own Valentine’s Day Sock Pattern. I designed a chart where different people are holding hands symbolizing friends and family that stick together. For this pattern I wanted to leave the typical pink color and heart shapes out and instead create something simple, beautiful and meaningful.

I decided to implement the pattern using the invisible stranding technique to make it as smooth and elastic as possible. But you can as well just use the regular two-color stranded knitting technique. Just remember to trap the floats when there are stretches of stitches in one color that span more than five stitches. When using two-color stranded knitting, knit 10 rows of stockinette stitch after the rib before starting on the chart.

What you need:

Size: fit women’s feet, the length of the foot can be easily adapted, size of the sample sock 36

Yarn: Novita Nalle grey (n. 115g), white (n.15g) (or any other 260g/100m Sock yarn)

Needles: set of five 2,5 mm double-pointed (dpn) needles, tapestry needle

Gauge: approx 26 sts x 35 rnds = 10 x 10 cm

How To:

With grey cast on 60 stitches. Arrange stitches evenly onto 4 dpn (16-16-16-16)

Join for working in the round.

Work the rib according to chart rounds 1-8 two times in total.

Change to stockinette stitch and work 8 rounds

Decrease in round 8 of stockinette stitch on Needle 4 knitting the 3.&2. last stitches together.

Decrease also in round 9 Needle 1: K1, ssk (slip, slip, knit) (=58 sts)

In the same round start on preparing for the invisible stranding technique by knitting a yarn over after every fourth stitch. Rearrange your stitches at the same time (20-20-20-13) (73 Stitches in total)

In finnish language this technique is called “the ladder -technique” so I’ll refer to these extra stitches that will remain hidden in the inside of the sock as ladder stitches for the rest of this pattern.

I have marked these ladder stitches into the chart as red and black lines. The difference between the red and the black lines is merely that the black ones are situated in the end of a needle and are in a different color only to make the following of the chart easier.

In the next round purl all the yarn overs with the white yarn into the back loop while holding the grey yarn in front of the work

Then knit the rounds 1-14 of the chart.

Purl the ladder stitches with white while holding the grey yarn in front of the work except when on both sides of the ladder stitch there are white stitches in the chart. In that case purl the ladder stitch in grey while holding the white yarn in front of the work.

  1. rnd after chart: knit all regular stitches grey and purl all ladder stitches white while holding grey yarn in front. Break white yarn.
  2. rnd after chart: slip all the grey stitches, purl all the ladder stitches with the grey yarn.
  3. rnd after chart: Decrease all the ladder stitches by knitting them together with the next stitch also knit all the other stitches with grey. (=58 sts)

Rearrange the stitches on the needles: (15-14-14-15)

Continue in stockinette stitch.

In round 9 after chart decrease on Needle 4 knitting the 3.&2. last stitches together.
Decrease also in round 10 after chart on Needle 1: K1, ssk (slip, slip, knit) (=56 sts)

Repeat the same decreases in end of round 11 after chart and beginning of round 12. (=54 sts) (13-14-14-13)

Start heel by knitting stitches of Needle 1 onto Needle 4 (=26 sts)


  1. slip 1 stitch purlwise, purl 24 sts and knit the last one. Turn.
  2. slip 1 stitch purlwise, *knit 1, slip 1 knitwise* repeat *-*. Turn.

Repeat rows 1&2 for a total of 13 times. Work row 1 one more time.

Then start working the bottom of the heel

On the right side: slip 1 st purlwise, then knit and slip knitwise alternately until there are only eight stitches left on the left needle. Knit 2 together trough the back loop. Turn.

work in short-rows as following:

  1. short-row: (Wrong side) slip 1 st purlwise, purl 11 sts, purl 2 sts together. Turn.
  2. short-row (Right side) *slip 1 knitwise, knit 1* repeat *-* for six times in total or 12 sts have been worked, knit 2 sts together through back loop. Turn.

Repeat short-rows 1&2 until there are only 13 sts left. You should be on the right side now and have just knit 2 sts together through the back loop.

Pick up 14 stitches along the edge of the heel flap, knit Needles 2&3, pick up 15 sts on the other edge of the heel flap. Divide the 13 sts of the heel onto Needles 1&4 (=21-14-14-21)

Continue on stockinette stitch decreasing for the gusset as following:

At the end of Needle 1: knit 2 sts together

At beginning of Needle 4: ssk-decrease (slip, slip, knit)

Continue with these decreases every round until there are 52 sts left (12-14-14-12)

I like my socks well fitted, if you like them loose of want to create a larger sock simply leave a few decreases out.

I wanted to fit the shape of the socks as neatly as possible to the shape of my toes so I ended up creating a fitted version for the toes. This means that the right and left socks are worked as mirror images.

I started the toes after 46 rounds of stockinette stitch after the heel. But knowing that the decreasing towards the toes takes 12 rounds (around 3,5cm) it is easy to knit the foot part for as long as you need.

Working the sock toe:

At the end of Needles 1&3: knit last 2 sts together.

At the beginning of Needles 2&4: ssk (I like to knit these decreased stitches into the back loop in the next round since that makes them settle nicely into the knitwork)

Knitting the right sock:

On Needles 1&2 decreases every round

On Needles 3&4 decreases every second round

That means:

  1. round of decrease: Decrease on every Needle (=48 sts)
  2. round: Decrease only on Needles 1&2 (=46 sts)
  3. round: Decrease on every Needle (=42 sts)
  4. round: Decrease only on Needles 1&2 (=40 sts)
  5. round: Decrease on every Needle (=36 sts)
  6. round: Decrease only on Needles 1&2 (=34 sts)
  7. round: Decrease on every Needle (=30 sts)
  8. round: Decrease only on Needles 1&2 (=28 sts)
  9. round: Decrease on every Needle (=24 sts)
  10. round: Decrease only on Needles 1&2 (=22 sts)
  11. round: Decrease on every Needle (=18 sts)

Knit the stitches of Needle 1 then bind of the remaining 18 stitches using the Kitchener stitch.

If you are not yet familiar with the Kitchener stitch I highly recommend this following video to learn it.

Knitting the left sock:

On Needles 1&2 decreases every second round

On Needles 3&4 decreases every round

  1. round of decrease: Decrease on every Needle (=48 sts)
  2. round: Decrease only on Needles 3&4 (=46 sts)
  3. round: Decrease on every Needle (=42 sts)
  4. round: Decrease only on Needles 3&4 (=40 sts)
  5. round: Decrease on every Needle (=36 sts)
  6. round: Decrease only on Needles 3&4 (=34 sts)
  7. round: Decrease on every Needle (=30 sts)
  8. round: Decrease only on Needles 3&4 (=28 sts)
  9. round: Decrease on every Needle (=24 sts)
  10. round: Decrease only on Needles 3&4 (=22 sts)
  11. round: Decrease on every Needle (=18 sts)

Bind off using the Kitchener stitch.

Weave in loose ends.

PS: Remember to make sure your friends and family know how important they are to you not only on Valentine’s Day but all year long! 🙂

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My personal stash of knitted socks

I am basically wearing knitted socks all the time. They don’t just warm my feet but give me a cosy and homely feeling. For chilly summer evenings or just regular Finnish winter days I have a choice of socks of diverse thickness and material and length and of course different designs from basic striped socks to socks with cables and more intricate patterns and colorwork. .

Many of them have a story of their own. Not all are made by me or even for me. For example there is one pair that has been made for my boyfriend by his mother when he was ten years old or so. He had grown out of them ages ago but I happily adopted them when he was about to throw them away.

Some are made in a knit along -project. There are pairs of socks I basically only made to try out a new technique. There is also a pair of slippers my sister made me. And some that I made with yarn I have also dyed myself.

What does your knitted sock drawer look like? Can one ever have too many pairs of knitted socks?

Tangled Cable Legwarmers + free knitting pattern

A colleague asked me to make her daughter a pair of cable leg warmers. I had some alpaca yarn left over from a sweater I made last December and decided to use it. Since I didn’t find a pattern with the right amount of stitches I would need I decided to create my own pattern. I wrote it down for you to enjoy as well.

Finished size: length 30 cm, for a calf of 35 cm

Construction: work in round, knit with two strands of the yarn at the same time throughout the work

Gauge: 17 stitches and 33 rounds = 10x10cm

What you need:

Yarn: 160g of Picchu 100% Alpaca yarn by Hjertegarn (50g=167m) color 930 (dark brown)

Needles: 4,00 mm (US size 6) set of five double-pointed needles

Cable needle, or extra needle in same size or smaller

Tapestry needle to weave in the ends.

How to:

Cast on 58 stitches, leaving a loose cast on edge. Divide stitches evenly onto 4 dps (double pointed needles) and join for working in the round. Work in knit 1 through back loop, purl 1 -rib for 20 rounds.

Start the chart knitting the row 20. While knitting this row increase 1 stitch by working into front and back of one stitch to get the 59 stitches the chart requires. (It makes no real difference which stitch you increase)

Then work rows 1-20 of the chart three times in total.

click on the chart to enlarge it

You have now knit 81 rounds in total. Repeat the same knit 1 through back loop, purl 1 -rib you started the leg warmer with for 20 rounds. (In the first round you have to knit two stitches together to get back to the 58 stitches)

Bind off while continuing the rip. Weave in the ends.

Make the other leg warmer in the same way.

Wash and block the leg warmers to obtain the correct size.

PS.In case you need to adjust the size of your leg warmers switch to smaller/bigger needles. You can also add some extra rib to each round. I would add it between stitches 11&12 and just knit 1 through back loop, purl 1 -rib for as many stitches as you want to add.

Hope you have fun with this pattern! 🙂

Spring Socks

The first time I flicked through the book Kauneimmat villasukat (Moreeni 2018) by Merja Ojanperä I instantly noticed the Sock Pattern Helmi-Orvokki and put it on my mental To Do -list. The Book is now also available in German (Bezaubernde Wollsocken: Mit Liebe gestrickt), French ( Magnifique chaussettes au tricot) and Swedish (Sticka underbara ullsockor I)

In stead of the white-grey combination of the original pattern I paired the white with a Grass Green. The White-Green makes me think of Spring, the Green waiting for longer days to emerge from under the snow.

As I usually do I made the foot part a little bit more narrow than in the original pattern to fit my small foot (My shoe size is 36). I am super happy with how these turned out.

For this project I used Aran yarn from Novita 7veljestä and the green yarn I found from the Adlibris Socki Collection. It goes by the name Grass Green. I used the Knitpro cubis 3,5 mm needles and ended up using 104 g of yarn in total.

Christmas Socks in January

I finished the Advent Calendar Socks 2017 designed by Niina Laitinen. I had to make some changes to make them fit my small 36 size foot. In general I have to shorten and narrow all patterns I work on.

This time I also tried to turn the “Christmas Vibes” of the Socks down for example by turning the gift boxes into plain boxes. These turned out just the perfect size and here in Finland there are still a few months of winter left so there is plenty time to wear these super warm socks this year.

The yarn I used is Seitsemän veljestä by Novita which is an Aran weight yarn that is available everywhere in Finland. In total I used 179 g (around 356 m) of yarn. The codes for the colors I used are 010, 021 and 549

Here is a link to the original pattern: